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Whether you want to go from a bob to mermaid-length hair overnight, or you want to sport a pastel shade on the weekends, it's never been easier to experiment with fake hair. Here's everything you need to know before you go faux.
Beyonce is the queen of changing up her hair length and color.
One of the joys of Instagram is that it allows us to keep tabs on all things celebrity beauty, such as what stars look like first thing in the morning, when they go bare-faced to the gym, and when they dramatically change up their hair. While it doesn't require a contouring selfie to figure out that Kim Kardashian West wears a lot of makeup, it is surprising for many non–beauty pros to learn just how many celebs rely on extensions and wigs to change their color or style. All of the casual reveals on social media seem to be inspiring more women to give fake hair a try, and boutiques like Just Extensions in Los Angeles and RPZL in New York City are popping up to cash in on the growing interest. "I've noticed more women getting extensions and clip-ins," says Cristina Rocha, the go-to extensions lady at Andy Lecompte Salon in Los Angeles. "I think it's more popular now because celebs have become more honest about the things they use to make them look like they do. To be honest, there isn't an actress I've ever worked with, on a photo shoot, or in a salon who didn't have extensions." Even for those who don't necessarily want to look like Kylie Jenner or Ciara, hairpieces are appealing because they allow you to regularly transform your look without making a big commitment. "Actresses have always worn fake hair, but now the average person is doing it to try something different," says Leona Wilson, owner of LW Salon in New York City. "It shouldn't be a replacement for your own hair, but it's no longer an insider secret. Everybody does it now—every nationality and every race."
Here's what you need to know before you start faking it:
CLIP-IN EXTENSIONSTAPE-IN EXTENSIONSSEW-IN WEAVE WIGS
CLIP-IN EXTENSIONS
The lowdown: If you're not big on the whole patience thing, clip-in extensions are a brilliant way to get more length instantly. Or, if your hair is fine or thinning, you can pop in a few pieces for fullness. High-end boutiques like Indique and beauty supply stores like Sally Beauty sell ready-to-wear clip-ins starting at $259 and $19.99 respectively, but Wilson recommends getting them customized by your hairstylist for the most natural-looking fit (unless you plan to use them only for a long ponytail). "If you're just adding a couple of pieces, most stylists will just snap them in for you," she says. "If you want a completely new shape that calls for 10 pieces, you'll probably have to pay for the cost of a haircut. It's best to go in for a consultation so you know what to expect up front." If your stylist is a whiz at clip-ins, you may be able to bring him or her a bundle of hair and have your extensions custom-made. As with any form of fake hair, stylists say that virgin human hair (meaning hair that hasn't been dyed, relaxed, or chemically treated in any way) is best. And be sure to buy good quality clips. "Cheap clips don't snap well. Test out the clips at the beauty supply store to make sure they close tightly before you buy them," says Wilson.
Basic care: Because clip-ins are not meant for daily use, you only need to wash them periodically. And don't even think about sleeping in them. "You put the clip-ins in the same spots in your hair," says Wilson. "The clips create tension, so you don't want to use them more than twice a week because after a while the area can become weak." To remove them, unsnap the clips and gently slide them out of your hair.
Expert tip: To keep track of which piece goes where, store your clip-ins in separate plastic bags and label them front, middle, nape, and top. That extra step will make reinstalling less confusing when you're ready to bust them out again.
TAPE-IN EXTENSIONS
The lowdown: If you want longer-lasting length, tape-in extensions could be your best bet. Tape-ins, as the name implies, are made with sticky panels at the top of each piece (think double-sided tape). Working section by section, your stylist takes a chunk of your hair and presses one panel on top of it and one underneath so your hair is wedged between two extensions, creating a "sandwich." It takes about an hour to do an entire head. Rocha is a fan of tape-ins because they're not as hard on hair as bonded extensions, and the hair is reusable. Another plus: They lie completely flat for a born-with-it look. But the downside? They're a splurge. "The only hair I use for tape-ins is Hair Lingerie," she says. "The cost is anywhere from $300 to $3,200 depending on the length and quantity." And don't forget, in addition to the hair (find out which brand your stylist prefers), you have to pay for the service. The price varies by salon and can range from $50 to $100 per "sandwich." Tape-ins typically last for about one month.
Basic care: Wash and condition as you normally would with your regular products. While blow-drying, use your hands until your hair is about 75-percent dry. "When you start with a round brush, dry the extension pieces separately, without your own hair in the section," says Rocha. And when you're ready to take them out, be prepared to head back to your pro. It's the most important step—you have to be careful not to take out your own hair," she adds. (See more on extension removal here.)
Expert tip: If an extension starts to come loose before your removal appointment, apply olive oil to the piece that's slipping, and massage it in. Gently peel apart the panels and comb out the glue.
SEW-IN WEAVE
The lowdown: With a sew-in weave, you can change your length, volume, hair color, and texture with minimal upkeep. How it works: Your stylist creates flat cornrows all over your head and reinforces them with thread before sewing wefts of hair or "tracks" onto the braids. A layer of your own hair is usually left out around the front, sides, and back to give you the option of wearing your hair up. "A sew-in weave is good for any hair texture, and it's cost-efficient," says Andre Davis, a faux-hair master at Julien Farel salon in New York City. The process can take between two and five hours, but you can safely leave in your weave for up to 12 weeks, which is why it's so appealing to women who want to grow out their hair or give it a rest from heat styling. As with extensions, stick with high-quality human hair. "Synthetics don't look natural, and you can't do anything with them," says Davis, referring to using heat tools. His online shopping pick: Extensions Plus. Your weave guru can help figure out how much you need and which texture is best, but two to three bundles of hair is the norm. Depending on the stylist, a weave costs $200 to $800, not including the hair. But once you invest, you can reuse your faux hair for at least one year.
Basic care: Pre-weave, get your ends trimmed and do a deep conditioning treatment. After you get the weave, stick with your usual washing and conditioning routine. You won't be able to massage your scalp thoroughly, so expect some buildup when you take the weave out. Styling should be a breeze, but go easy on products. And don't slack off on hair care. "Make sure you moisturize the hair that's left out when you shampoo. If you neglect your edges, they're going to break," warns Wilson. Don't go crazy with heated styling tools, either. "I see a lot of clients who flatiron their leave-out hair too much and it ends up shorter and thinner," she says. Get help taking out your weave from an experienced stylist or a trusted friend who knows how. To ensure your hair stays healthy, "give yourself two months before you put a weave back in," Wilson adds.
Expert tip: If you have super-curly hair or an Afro, you don't have to give up your textured look to get a weave. Companies like Heat Free Hair sell wefts that range from coily to kinky to blend with and enhance natural hair. The tracks are installed with the same needle-and-thread technique as traditional sew-in weaves. "It's also great for women who are transitioning from relaxed to natural because it gives them a chance to get comfortable styling hair that matches their natural texture, and they can play with different lengths and styles," says Ngozi Opara, creator of Heat Free Hair.
WIGS
The lowdown: Hair chameleons like Zendaya and Katy Perry understand the beauty of a good wig: You can switch your persona from one day to the next. "Sometimes I'm three different people in one day. I have literally changed my hair in a cab on the way to an event," says Hadiiya Barbel, a hairstylist and boutique owner who creates high-end wigs she refers to as "crowns." At her shop, she caters to the serious wig-wearer who wants a hairpiece that will last for years. Barbel's crowns go for $300 for a cropped cut to $1,750, but she also crafts custom pieces that can run as high as $3,500. No matter where you shop, wig prices vary greatly based on the type of hair, the length, and the texture. One of the most popular styles: lace wigs. "They give you a really natural hairline," says Barbel. "It looks like the hair is growing out of your scalp, and you can part it in different directions." Lace wigs are secured to the hairline with a special glue that's sold at wig stores. You remove the adhesive at night with oil. Browse sites like vohair.com and samsbeauty.com for a good selection of more affordable, ready-made options. If you need a wig because you're dealing with hair loss, go with a monofilament cap. They're undetectable because they allow your scalp to show through, but they don't require any adhesive. Want to sport a wild wig just for fun? A synthetic one will do the trick. "They're quick and easy for people who are just playing around," Barbel says. The Hair Shop has colorful options for less than $30.
Basic care: How often you wash a human-hair wig depends on how often you wear it—once every 10 days is a good guideline. Save your fancy products and use a moisturizing, drugstore shampoo and conditioner with warm water. In between washes, use as little product as possible. "It leaves a residue and can make the hair heavy and matted," says Barbel. You don't need to wash a synthetic wig. If it becomes unwearable, just throw it away. If you do choose to wash it, use cool water to keep the fibers from melting.
Expert tip: If you don't have oil to take off your lace wig, use a rich conditioner as a substitute.
